After a long cold winter, I return to my shedquarters. On the desk sits a forlorn catalogue – Witness to Mortality, published in 1997 to coincide with an exhibition by Joseph McKenzie, a photographer famed for his iconic Gorbals Children. On the cover is a bleak landscape titled The New Lifestyle 2 (Red Road Flats Newly Opened). Shot in 1968, the black and white image shows a long, empty road, slick with rain, where a solitary vehicle drives towards the vanishing point. Centre frame, a black telegraph pole divides the image, beneath which a woman in a winter coat faces the camera. On the right, startling and mysterious in the fog are two tower blocks. For me, this one picture sums up Glasgow, a heartrending sign of things to come, but somehow not the future.
In 2006 Andrea Arnold made the admirable film, Red Road, set in the Barmulloch towerblocks. My memory of the area goes back to the 1970s, visiting schoolfriends, where one day I stood on the 31st storey of one of the blocks, reputedly the tallest domestic dwellings in Europe, looking out from a landing window across the city. It was a far more disorientating experience than I recall from my childhood, visiting Auntie Mary in her Castlemilk high-rise.
In 2002-3, during my second feature, Solid Air, I shot several scenes in tower blocks, in both Sighthill and in the Gorbals. Securing the latter location was tainted with tragedy, since the previous occupant, recently deceased, left the flat more or less intact. Whether it was relatives, neighbours or council employees who plundered the dead woman’s effects prior to our arrival, I’ll never know, but during the recce the smell was so bad some of the crew refused to enter.
In one scene shot in the flat (which I later reluctantly cut) a young woman gazes wistfully out of the window to an identical tower block –
What conclusions about high-rise living can anyone make? We hear the stories, the urban myths, but until you’ve lived in one of Glasgow’s towers, all bets are off. It’s rare for Guardian journalists to get as roused by events in Glasgow as they did on March 13th, when they reported on the multiple suicide of three asylum seekers who jumped from the 15th floor of their Red Road block on March 6th, their due-date for eviction.
Yet an earlier Guardian article published on March 7 identified the dead as ‘said to be of Kosovan origin’. The phrase used – ‘close to the ground’ – struck me as wholly inappropriate in the context, a reminder that at times like these the cracks in the cutbacks facing journalism start to show. For want of a sub…
What’s at stake here is not the truth but how all the instant comment on this tragedy is rendered meaningless and devoid of inquiry. Nobody living in Petershill Drive that morning was twittering about three dead bodies lying on a grass verge. Nobody heard a thing.
As it turned out the corpses were not of Kosovan origin, but Russian: Serge Serykh, his wife, Tatiana, and – sadly – an unnamed stepson, three people who only days earlier shared a lift with their neighbours, carrying their messages, going about their business. Who knew about their eviction notice? Or the journey that led them to the Red Road flats?
Local reporting held its own, albeit reduced to a mixed and predictable blow-by-blow reckoning of events, none of which countered the line put out by the Border Control Agency, that Serykh suffered from paranoia and was deemed mentally defect, an attempt to deflect heat from their own actions. No one questioned the extent to which Serykh and his family felt the threat of the authorities.
Instead we read how the concierge on duty discovered the bodies, how the immediate neighbours weren’t aware of the incident until hours later and how they held a candlelit vigil on the grass verge where the victims fell. Depending on which paper you subscribe to, reader’s comments were on a par with the worst of East Londoner’s BNP rants about sponging asylum seekers, how they get their houses furnished, while we live in shitsville.
Last week I took a walk to Red Road to see for myself. Several blocks are due for demolition, the usual footpaths barricaded, much to the inconvenience of the locals warned off the territory by security firm notices. Such warnings would be useful if they also stated the date of the scheduled blowdown and the potential dangers of asbestos poisoning since, as many a monkey-dunger will testify – the moniker given to the men who sprayed the interiors of the Red Road flats with the stuff in the late 60s. Assuming they’re still alive.
Thankfully the weather is on my side today. Walking around the Red Road/Petershill Drive blocks, it’s hard to believe you’re in a European city. The dereliction – a film set cliché of modern slums – is almost unfathomable. The Brig Bar, located in a rubble-strewn basement, is long gone. Above, a row of shops is mostly closed and shuttered, apart from a Costcutters, a pharmacy and a fast food outlet. The scene reminds me of a trip to Tblisi I made more than a decade ago in the aftermath of the civil war in Georgia.
A guy comes out of the Red Road Pharmacy and approaches, as they always do when they see a camera. A Glasgow native, he’s friendly enough, his face sunken, yellowed, with a pronounced scar on his left cheek. I ask his opinion of the imminent demolition. Should’ve done it years ago, man, he replies, adding, I used to live in these flats and they were shit even then.
Next I see three young black boys heading home from school, running the gauntlet of a group of local white lads I spotted earlier outside Costcutters. How does this work, I wonder? What exactly is the ethnic makeup of the schools round here and how do already hard-pressed teachers negotiate their way around the prejudices and sensitivities of such a mixed group?
Rounding the corner, I watch as people come and go. Out of four blocks, I note there’s only one concierge station. But at least the kids are playing on the street and the local play park, a rare sight in any city these days. The ethnic mix is pretty evident, as Somalians, Chinese, Bangladeshis, Romanians and other nationalities I can only guess at come and go.
Like most outlying schemes in this city, it’s striking how few cars there are, as is parking provision – another oversight by the architects and planners who conceived of Red Road. I count twenty spaces per block, when each block houses roughly 240 adults, probably more. Plainly social engineering on this scale failed to factor-in aspiration, the notion that a working class wage could ever stretch to a Ford Cortina, Escort, Capri, Mondeo or Focus. The architects certainly didn’t futureproof their creation in terms of technology. Only one of the blocks boasts a mobile phone mast, those puny antlers that adorn most of the city’s high rises, once a source of militancy among the concerned middle classes, an issue now abated.
The Glasgow private taxi of choice, a Skoda Octavia, draws up. In a slow-motion sequence, out comes a white guy, pulling on his fag. It takes him a good three minutes to find and open the rear door and even longer to persuade his fellow passenger, a female, presumably his girlfriend, to get out. By the way they cling to one another, the pair are either gouching, drunk or otherwise debilitated, as they weave their way up the path towards one of the blocks. At this point I wonder – what impression do the non-indigenous have of the locals? Every white person I’ve seen here today looks like an early Peter Howson drawing – rail-thin, wax-skinned, hollowed out humanity.
With the forthcoming election, I muse on how many people here have the right to vote and how many will bother to exercise that right. In the end, what does it matter which country you’re from – Scotland included – when what you’re living with is intolerable? Seeking asylum, or refuge from the root cause – poverty – is entirely legitimate. But with immigration the hot issue in the coming election and the indigenous poor set to suffer most from cuts to public services, the outcome bodes ill for all. That said, there are conspicuous community ventures in the Red Road area where good work happens against the odds. The local nursery school with its garden is an optimistic counter to the fort-like boarded-up pubs and bookies.
I note the pine trees, a plaintive stab at landscaping. Here rugged boulders conjure in miniature a Highland scene, a place of the imagination, of solace. Standing on a grass verge I look up at one of the blocks, counting to the fifteenth floor. I stop short of imagining the last words and thoughts of the three members of the Serykh family that March night as they stood together on their veranda before mounting the thin divide separating them from the void.
When the blocks do come down, I hope the trees don’t fall with them. The Serykhs were only one of the 670 families of similar status living in the blocks. As I leave, I’m chastened by the thought that we’re all only two paycheques away from the gutter, no matter where we come from.
Just to say sorry to all my subscribers for the repeat email alert. My original post got lost in the blogosphere so I had to rewrite it!
May
Hey May
I hoped you would venture into the north of the city. Red Road is less than 10 minutes from my house and has been part of the landscape my whole little life.
I have mixed emotions about the place because my drama group rehearsed and performed in the Alive and Kicking Centre for a few years. We then moved to the Y.M.C.A. flat. During our time in Red Road we were photographed for The National Theatre and the picture of us at the foot of the flats made us feel proud.
I worked with many people from Kosovo when they arrived during 1999. This was not reported well and fuelled resentment among the local communtiy. Local families waiting years for repairs to their housing couldn’t understand why flats were being decorated and fully furnished for foreigners. Imagine losing everything, running for your life and the only solace is Red Road Flats…
My mum has fond memories of her aunt moving into her brand new flat with all mod cons. I’m not sure how long the excitement lasted. I do know how long it took my cousins to get out of there.
There is no doubt they need to come down and I can’t wait to see how it opens the skyline. I hope the trees can survive it and if the people are anything to go by then there is a glimmer of hope.
Thanks
Lizzie
Thanks Lizzie,
Your insights are spot on. And you’re right about the reporting on the Kosovans and the complex issues surrounding asylum seekers getting preferential treatment over the locals. But I also know the people of Glasgow are mostly welcoming, even if the housing on offer isn’t.
If you were to believe some of the reporting on immigration, you’d think it’s a recent phenomenon. But Glasgow, like all major UK cities, has a long history of asylum seekers and refugees. For instance, in the mid 19th century, four out of five people in Glasgow were of Irish origin, so nothing new there.
cheers,
May
“I must not let my environment affect me so much”.
Ivor Cutler
An almost impossible task in this environment.
My mother brought me as a child to a similar place in Edinburgh. The Two Paycheques thing is as familiar and true today as it was in 1975.
A friend from the carribean continues to be traumatised by a fire caused by a paraffin heater in wandsworth that resulted in the death of her mother, again in the 1970s. We had the same make of heater in our brutalist council flat – the only form of heat.
I’m travelling on buses a lot nowadays. The ergonomics are non-existent – even though these buses are brand new, the seats are too narrow – the heating system is freezing in winter and now uncomfortably hot in spring – the drivers are chained to a schedule that forces them to drive like maniacs on dangerous stretches of sub/urban roads.
It’s starting to feel like the 1970s all over again. Just pray it doesn’t turn into a 10s balkanisation of “North Britain”.
We were poor but we were miserable…
Thanks for the comment, Ed. Paraffin heaters were a big part of my upbringing too since we had no heating in our Pollok flat apart from a recalcitrant coal fire. We had a couple of the beasts we carried from room to room while still lit. That we didn’t all die in a housefire is surely divine provenance. Just add polystyrene ceiling tiles and gloss paint…
Buses – don’t get me started. I regularly take the bus into the city centre – with the M74 Extension ongoing, cycling’s only for the brave and driving’s an extortionate pain. The buses are generally 20 years old with zilch suspension and maniacal drivers stunt racing through potholes while yakking on their mobiles. I caught a 38 one day from Renfield Street to find the driver toking on a joint. At least he was cheerful.
hi may
Last weekend I went to tramway christophe buchel last one out turn off the lights……….your latest episode reminded me of this……….
take care
hugh
I just watched peter strickwood ‘katalin varga’ & again, I am reminded of the balkanisation of glasgow……….
Thanks Hugh
Red Road is bad enough but not as bad as the housing developments being built right now on the site of old Ravenscraig works. It’s the Glasgow schemes all over again, only privatised, with no amenities and no transport links, just row upon row of small low-rise houses built on a toxic wasteland. The lessons of Corby forgotten it seems.
When I worked for Motherwell District Council in the early 1990’s, I spotted a graveyard across the road from the council buildings (this was at the end of Ravenscraig as a metal furnace). The most striking thing about the gravestones were their melted appearance – something I’d never encountered before, in only surface- soot-stained places like Edinburgh. Thinking about it later, it was clear these fairly hard sandstone memorials had been affected by the industrial REVOLUTION (we usually associate revolution with some positive social change – here was revolution raw in tooth and claw, acidic to the core). And what did that do to brains? To Bairns? This is the collateral damage of consumerism piled on carelessness. No wonder buckfast is so popular.
Is there hope in the sea of stupidity? Is there beauty whilst others suffer?
It is possible to change/seachange. Resiliance matters.
Is there a prayer for that?
Thanks Ed, for your eloquent comment.
At time of writing, I’m still overwhelmed by the outcome of the election, trying to fathom what it all means, and the consequences for all of us, but especially those in Red Road and those who aspire to buy a house on the wasteland site of Ravenscraig.
Forget voting patterns and nationalist interests – the fact is, two generations have been neutered politically – it took 18 years of Tory rule and 13 years of New Labour to achieve a gradual grinding-down of any ambition for what truly matters – social justice, good government, sound economic policies, the concept of doing the right thing.
What actually happened drove most of us into a state of subliminal dread or downright apathy. The result – a coalition government – a rare event in the UK – but the norm in most mainland Euro nations today. The trend leans towards a right-centrist mindset, driven by commerce, not industry. I don’t envy the career politician’s task, but they made the bed in which we all have to lie and for that reason I despise all of them.
There’s something terribly poignant about your description of the gravestones, the sense that not even those bought-and-paid-for lumps of stone – many of them memorials of those who worked at the steel plant, I’m certain – were affected the very thing that put them in their graves.
Is there a prayer? I hope so. But when tonight’s Reporting Scotland told of the 1200 job losses at the NHS, the cynic in me laughed at the timing of the announcement. Ditto for Glasgow City (Labour) Council’s axing of 10 per cent of their staff. As the old saw goes – power corrupts but absolute power corrupts absolutely – for me remains the get-out clause for what we have now.
Maybe St Jude is our only hope.
May
Well May you were timely again on your comments on Ravenscraig – and the contradictions now multiplied by your election concerns. Most people interested in Ravenscraig will have seen this by now –
https://thescotsman.scotsman.com/politics/National-Archives-of-Scotland-reveal.6310210.jp
Interesting they had doubts – for a second. I think we are better-served by politicians now than then, incredible though it seems.
But it’s easy for them now though – all that lung damage transposed to India. Lost an empire and gained a toxic-sink.
Slightly ironic that Wenlock and Mandeville are posited as metal-founded characters by the admittedly-lovely-in-a-cringe-sort-of-way Michael Morpurgo animation!
Thanks Ed,
As it happens I did see the Scotsman piece today. A great picture too. But you have to ask why this information, previously under a 30 year lockdown, was released 15 years early – and the motives behind the Scottish, not Westminster government’s decision to release it.
I’m with you on the notion of ‘better-served government’. We’re through the mirror on this one – a week or so into a coalition and frankly I’m in shock at how many decisions of a Tory/Lib Dem, or Con-Dem pact – I agree with. Scrapping ID cards – tick – halting the extradition of Gary McKinnon – tick – extending the Freedom of Information Act – tick – increased spending on the arts – tick – NHS investment to be ringfenced – absolutely. It’s all very strange, but as a victim of the Thatcher years, I reserve judgement. Truth is, our politicians are on their best behaviour, but for how much longer?
Meanwhile, Diane Abbott MP, shamelessly putting herself up as an agent of ‘the Left’ as a Labour Party leader, only confirms how the Left left the building a long time ago. Unlike Elvis however, like her fellow candidates, she has no talent, no ideology, no policies – only positions to protect. Some comedown. The shame is they haven’t grasped it yet, cushioned as they are by their minimum £64,766 annual salary. Plus – ahem – their expenses.
Thankfully the media has devoted little time to the Labour leadership contest, non-event that it is – let’s just hope in the foreseeable that the Tory/Lib Dem honeymoon matures into something a little more lasting and substantial.